Crete in October 2: the spectacular coastline around Loutro

Colchium macrophyllum

Writing my first blog about Crete yesterday, I was excited to find out about the extinct endemic dwarf deer of  Crete, some with the incredibly long antlers, and depicted many times in the Asphendou cave. So were there any endemic birds around back then?, or any subspecies that have survived to the present day.  Apparently, there are two recognised extant Cretan bird subspecies - of the Great Tit and Jay, and there was an endemic owl, Athene cretensis, a relative of the Little Owl, which became extinct when humans arrived.

Porto Loutro at sunrise

Anyway, back to the lovely resort of Loutro on the south coast of Crete.  Typical birds around the settlement were Italian Sparrows and Collared Doves, and just beyond in the scrubby hillsides were Sardinian Warblers and Stonechats.  Blue Rock Thrushes were also common, especially along the coast.  A few warblers were passing through, I noted both Willow and Garden. Surprisingly, one of the most commonly encountered birds was the Kingfisher - several birds were feeding around the rocky coastline, sometimes perched on the small boats moored at the jetty in Loutro.  Crag Martins were quite common along the coastal cliffs, in small flocks.

The birding highlight though was the regular sight of several Griffon Vultures soaring above the hillside that overlooks Loutro Bay.  They were often joined by Ravens and Buzzards and on our last morning, by a pair of Bonelli's Eagles.  The peak count I made was of forty birds.  This represents about 10% of the Cretan Griffon Vulture population, which in turn is 70-80% of the Greek population.  I assume their main diet is goat, as they are by far the most common mammal grazing the hillsides; there are also quite a few sheep.  There are also "wild" goats introduced by early settlers too.

Griffon Vultures soaring high above Loutro

The coastline is spectacular, with many caves, multi-coloured cliffs and remote pebble beaches.

Natural arch near Hora Sfakion

Coastline east of Loutro

Sweetwater Beach between Loutro and Sfakia, a spring behind the beach is used to pipe drinking water to Loutro

Coastal caves just east of Hora Sfakion

Above the cliffs, arid limestone "phrygana" supports a few plants and even a few trees.  Most spectacular and surprisingly abundant was the Sea Squill.

Sea Squill

 

Most of the week the White Mountains, that rise above the lower hills, were covered in cloud, but on the last couple of days they revealed themselves.  One of our fellow swim-trekkers is a mountain guide in Scotland and explored these mountains for a few days before joining in the swimming.  He has written a great blog about his adventure.

Hora Sfakion with the White Mountains in the distance.

Butterflies were not numerous but included a few I've not seen before, as well as the always welcome Swallowtail and Clouded Yellow:

Cretan Greyling

Lang's Short-tailed Blue

Pale Clouded Yellow

Clouded Yellow

Swallowtail

Also, the impressive Carpenter Bee was attracted to pot plants at a taverna:

A couple of half-day swims gave time off in the afternoon to explore inland a bit more.  A walk up the Aradena Gorge behind Marmara Beach was particularly impressive: towering walls of orange limestone with vultures soaring above.  In the sandy soils of the gorge, a single clump of the beautiful Colchium macrophyllum was in full bloom.  Further up the gorge were quite a number of lovely yellow stenbergia flowers.

Aradena Gorge viewed from the sea

Colchium macrophyllum

Aradena Gorge

Stenbegria

The second walk followed the coast from Aghios Roumeli (where the famous Samaria Gorge meets the coast) back to Loutro.  This was an excellent walk with spectacular scenery and some welcome shade from a forest of pine trees.  Overhead, again, were Griffon Vultures, but also a couple of Golden Eagles - an adult and an immature bird circling together above the graggy hilltop.

Coast near Cape Plaka - nice the see pine trees thriving here despite the presence of goats

Golden Eagles, the immature bird has extensive white on wings and base of tail.

We enjoyed a fabulous week - a very enjoyable time swimming with some lovely people, superb Cretan cuisine, and a great insight into the natural history of Crete. I'd love to make another visit - next time in the "first"spring.

Sunrise at Loutro

Sunrise at Loutro

Sunrise at Loutro