Nature in the Heart of England: Crete in October 1: flowers of the second "spring"

Crete experiences a spring-like burst of plant growth and a second flowering season in the autumn - rainfall dampens the parched ground, triggering many bulbs into life. By mid-October, the limestone grasslands and rocky slopes have become carpeted in delicate crocuses, narcissus and squills.

An opportunity to find some of these lovely autumn flowers came about when Mark and I decided to book onto a week of swimming along the south coast of Crete with the excellent Swimtrek. Fortuitously, we were able to meet up with our Cretophile friend Bruce for a couple of days beforehand, and explore an "off the beaten track" walk across the mountains to look for flowers and other wildlife.

On Saturday 13th October we caught an early bus from Chania and an hour or so later jumped off at Askyfou, where an expanse of agricultural fields are surrounded by limestone hills. It was quite cool and the hills were covered in cloud, but gradually the sun started to break through.

Hilltop fort

fields near Goni

The fields were full of birds - Cirl and Corn buntings, Stonechats, a Whinchat, Woodlarks and a Red-backed Shrike. We soon spotted the first of a couple of dozen Griffon Vultures, which were then joined by three Eleonora's Falcons, as well as Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Sparrowhawk and Ravens. The track started to lead up a valley between two hills and before long we found a few white crocuses Crocus laevigatus, then more and more - in places carpeting small patches of grass amongst the rocky limestone slopes.

Track leading from Goni to Asphendou

As the mist cleared, Griffon Vultures and other raptors started to appear

Crocus laevigatus

A few beautiful daffodils Narcissus serotinus were growing in a couple of places - quite small and very delicate.

Narcissus serotinus

We continued to scan the skies for raptors - there was a good chance of seeing Bearded Vulture here too. We were not in luck, but we did see both Peregrine and Golden Eagle. Flowers continued to appear, including the well-named arum lily, Friar's Cowl, growing beneath an old olive tree.

Friar's Cowl - an arum lily

Bruce spotted one of just a few of the endemic Cretan colchicum Colchicum cretense.

Colchicum cretense

We then passed through the small village of Asphendou and entered the gorge of the same name, with stunning cliffs. Many goats graze across the hills of Crete and no doubt have a profound effect of the landscape and ecology, they also keep the numerous dung beetles busy.

A cave nearby has helped to give an amazing insight to the extinct fauna of Crete, which included several species of deer and a dwarf elephant.

view down the gorge

dung beetle

Spiny Chicory

Autumn Buttercup

Autumn Squill

Autumn Squill became more common as we descended through the gorge.

A single specimen of the strange little Cretan Biarum Biarum davisii was growing beside the track but well tucked into the rocks and hard to photograph well. Endemic to Crete and apparently quite scarce, this arum lily was once use to induce abortion.

Biarum davisii

An hour or so later we left the gorge behind us and had our first views along the south coast of Crete. It was noticeable how arid the landscape was here. Recent rains that had brought the hills to life hadn't really reached the south coast and the spring flush of growth was much less evident. However, it was exciting to see the first few tall and spectacular flowers of the Sea Squill Urginea maritima, a flower that we later found to be abundant along the coast.

Sea Squill

After half an hour we caught a minibus along the coast to Hora Sfakion, then waited for the coastal ferry to arrive which was the cue for the departure of the bus back to Chania - and just time to enjoy a glorious sunset.